One Way to Tie a Spiral Laced Closure


Spiral lacing (lacing through offset holes with a single cord) is the most common way to close a laced opening in medieval and Renaissance clothing.  However, if you have ever attempted to use spiral lacing, you are faced with the problem of how to tie off the single end securely.  Over the years, I have tied that single end every which way from Sunday in an attempt to figure out a reliable method that doesn't slip and can be untied at the end of the day (it's really quite painful to have to cut your handmade linen lacing cords because the knot is impossible to undo).  This is the method that has resulted from extensive trial and error.  I make absolutely no argument whatsoever that this is a historically correct way to do it, but my kirtles don't slip and I can easily untie it when it's time to get undressed.

A few caveats: 
1)  Use a linen or wool cord.  A slippery silk or synthetic cord will probably still slip.
2)  This method was developed using boned kirtles.  It may cause bunching of the fabric at the top hole if used to tie unboned garments made from thin fabric-try it and see if you're happy with the result.
3)  I usually retie myself around 30 minutes after I've initially put on the garment.  This is due to redistribution of slack from the length of the lacing, not from the knot slipping.

Note:  Although for photographic purposes I show the knot tied on the outside of the garment, you will actually be tying this on the inside of the garment so the knot is completely hidden.
Step1
 Completed lacing with the one loose end lying free.
Step 2
 Push a loop of the loose end underneath the cord coming out of the hole directly below.
Step 3
 Pick up the loop and the free end.  You will treat the loop as a single end.  Tie the two ends (the free end and the loop treated as an end) in a single half throw (just like the first step of tying your shoes).
Step 4
 Pull the two ends tight.  That's all there is to it!  If you are really worried about slippage, you can complete tying the two sides like you tie your shoes.

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